the salt & pepper diaries

I’ve developed quite a routine for each visit to New York. First an email goes out a few days prior to leaving to a few people, requesting any hot-tips, the feedback is cross-referenced against the usual sites (mainly Frank Bruni’s latest thoughts) and then the week is planned around how to make sure I get a chance to make room for a nice dinner. This week though, none of the prep was possible and I turned up on Tuesday with no plan and feeling anxious.

Why worry though, NY’ers love food and love talking food and are never short of recommendations. So, the tip I picked up for Wednesday night was Smith’s NYC in Greenwich Village. My friend Michael practically insisted we go and without reservation we turned up and managed to get two seats at the bar.

Smith’s is the result of a partnership between two NY restaurant ‘names’ – Cindy Smith of Raouls and Danny Abrams of The Mermaid Inn. They’ve managed to create a wonderfully informal yet elegant dining space. The main restaurant is smoothly designed with black leather banquettes, booths and antique mirrors. The space is long and slim and walking beyond this, you arrive at an intimate bar area, with space for 10 people to sit and eat. This is the preferred option for me – it’s quieter, the bar lady is chatty and knows her wines and it just feels right.

What also felt ‘right’ was the food. This place is something else with some very special treats that cannot be missed. It’s American cooking but with some interesting twists. We started with the Steamed Egg with Creamy Anson Mills Polenta and Gorgonzola – a joy to see as well as eat; it’s delicate, bubbling egg white dome hiding a silky and rich polenta centre. Portuguese Sardines with Parmigiano Reggiano, Tomato Confit and Olive Oil were done to perfection as well as luxurious chilled Pea and mint soup.

An entrée of Roast Lamb Saddle followed with Tomato Red Pepper Ragoñt and Parmigiano Purèe. Beautifully tender meat served medium rare with little fuss.

Smith’s must have been through its ‘the place to be’ period, as it was fortunately devoid of any pretension and aloofness amongst the diners. The staff are friendly, experienced and create a very relaxed atmosphere. A real pleasure to have been there and the first of many trips.

Smith’s NYC

79 MacDougal Street
New York, NY 10012
Tel: 212.260.0100

So, I’ve been very, very lazy and this is the first post for over a month. Bad form, but fortunately I haven’t gone hungry in that time and have quite a backlog of places to talk about.

photo | bubbyspieco (their own Flickr site!)

The most recent however is a unique place called Bubby’s Pie Company deep in Tribeca on Manhattan island. This place is such a find, but is most definitely not a secret. The place has apparently been rolling since 1990 when chef Ron Silver, 28 at the time, decided that New York needed some American home cooking and began knocking out all sorts of pies, to the delight of the artists, down and outs and assorted freaks of a pre-DeNiro’d Tribeca.

It’s not just pies though. Ron soon opened up to providing great breakfasts and a full daily menu. American cooking like this is a joy, pure comfort food that puts you in a very comfortable frame of mind. The Grits topped with cheese is enough on its own, but this comes as a sideshow to support the eggs, bacon, home fries and sausage. The other recommended option is Huevos Rancheros – eggs on soft tortillas and black beans and topped with a fiery salsa, cheese and avocado, so very good.

If you return for lunch the next day - yep, I did – the options expand to Buffalo wings, Trout cakes, Fried chicken served with Black-Eyed Peas and Hush Puppies or a Bourbon Flank steak.

“Save room for the Pie” screams at you from the menu and freshly available yesterday were New York State Apple Whiskey pie or a Michigan Sour Cherry pie. Think of the scene that gives American Pie 1 it’s name and you have an image of the pies on offer, large and round with criss-crossed pastry crust with the fruit oozing out – although I wasn’t tempted to put my ‘old fella’ in these ones.

photo | bubbyspieco

Please visit if you get the chance. My preference is the morning for breakfast, but anytime of day is good. It’s a little out of the way, but worth it.

Bubby’s Pie Co.
120 Hudson Street in Tribeca
NY
Tel: 10013, 212.219.0666

I know it looks like I’ve been hit by a bunch of PR’s recently, what with this promo for St. Germain and the last shout for the newly opened Grand Union, but it’s not true. I just picked up this email from the St.G team this morning offering 50% off on a Monday night and thought definitely worth the post. Not sure how long this deal lasts, but I imagine for next month or so.

If you do get the chance to head down on a Monday night then well worth using the offer - great Steak and a killer Espresso Martini.

Apologies to all reading this - not for the content, but for simply lifting straight from a press release announcing the re-opening of the much loved Grand Union Camden sent to me last week.

I haven’t yet been down to see the new bar, but when I do, I’ll post my thoughts. So in the mean time, have a read of their opening press release.

After significant refurbishment, the site opposite Camden Road Station has a new layout. Now offering more space, with an eclectic mix of decorations it is once again the place to be in Camden. Doors more or less pried apart by the adoring band of regulars were opened on Thursday the 6th March for a typically Grand weekend.

The structural changes have opened the building considerably, with the idea to accommodate more late night revelers and diners alike. Aesthetically, the mood is similar; a shabby eccentricity is achieved through a selection of bits and pieces from reclamation yards, auction rooms and vintage junk shops.

A more homely front section includes an interesting mix of old English furniture, with Oriental knick-knacks like Chinese lanterns and Japanese fan umbrellas, giving a chameleon like appeal, reflective of the Camden area. The back section, slightly more formal and diner friendly boasts a new feature wall, where rough brickwork has been exposed behind booth seating.

The renowned burgers are a breath of fresh air in a time that has seen the majority of operators turn to pre-cooked frozen food. Made in-house using 100% Beef on specifically baked sesame seed buns, the towering portions beg the question why is one often paying more for frozen pub grub?

Beef is not the only option however; The Grand Union serves up a broad new Classic Burger menu. More interesting choices include the Greek Lamb with cucumber raita and for vegetarians, the Chargrilled Aubergine and Goat’s Cheese Burger is just one of the options.

For the chips rated in Time Out’s top ten ‘Best in London’, the process is simple yet effective. High-quality Maris Pipers are cut to 12mm, rinsed thoroughly and boiled to 90% in salted water, then finished in the fryer. This method creates a rich tasting classic style chip that is surprisingly healthy.

Fresh cocktails remain a must; the extended list includes contemporary new flavors from top mixologists in their very own Latino Lover, while holding on to traditional classics like the Sidecar and Old Fashioned.

The Grand Union Camden

102-104 Camden Road

NW1 9EA

Tel: 020 7485 4530

Do you have a burning desire to call Chef Ramsay (I love Kitchen Nightmares US!) a plum AND have a three course dinner along with a bunch of celebs? Well, sign up to the new series of the F-Word and you can. In their words, they are looking for people who are “passionate, opinionated and enthusiastic food lovers”. Go for it, your 15 minutes awaits…