It’s exactly a year since St.Germain in Farringdon opened, but owner Neil Walkington didn’t think it would open at all. Three weeks before the inaugural evening, Neil was heading over on his motorbike to check on the final stages of the restaurant build, when a taxi failed to see him and pulled out in to the bike’s path. Thankfully Neil survived, but sustained a crushed pelvis, broken leg and arms and no hope at all to see his dream open up.
A phone call though from his hospital bed to a good friend saved the day and St.Germain opened on time and within budget. Neil’s first visit was in a wheelchair, pushed by his parents some weeks later.
Retrospectively, this makes a great story. Neil has thrown his all into converting a run down and disused warehouse space into a large, high ceilinged open brasserie space. A rich Gallic menu with everything you’d expect from our cross-channel neighbours, but with a very New York theme – it’s effectively a whitewashed Balthazar and has the same informal, friendly and energetic feel of this Manhattan great.
The evening started back to front and I went for a house desert special – an Espresso Martini - for me though, this is a perfect opener for any evening. This was soon followed by another recommendation, an Apple and Cinnamon Martini – all very Big Apple!
So to the food. It was the evening England were dumped from the European Cup by Croatia and the bar and dining areas weren’t at full capacity, but you can see how this place would fill quickly and become loud and punchy with atmosphere.
A selection of menus are on offer; Brunch, the Plats Du Jour, A La Carte, Prix Fixe and Group Dining options with individual dishes across them all. The first item, however, that arrived was the wine – Michel Lafarge Meursault, a fantastic 2003 white burgundy – there are definite perks to dining with the owner! To start with it was a hard decision not to go for the Steak Tartare, but with the Cote de Boeuf to share for our main course, I felt it a carnivorous step too far and opted for the Potted Crab and Shrimp - subtle in flavour and light as an appetiser.
The Plat Pour Deux followed. The Cotes de Boeuf cooked rare and served with a red wine jus and roast vegetables was a real treat. Tender and deep in flavour, this was quickly polished off, accompanied by another recommendation from Neil, an Australian 2002 Charles Melton Shiraz.
Close to bursting, but in true Mr Creosote fashion, I went for a large, silky Crème Brule – perfect.
This is a great place to drink and eat and has added colour to what was once a dreary cut through road from Farringdon station to the Clerkenwell Road. So if you’re hungry and in the area, avoid heading to Smith’s and make a detour to St.Germain, you won’t regret it.
St. Germain
89 - 90 Turnmill Street
London
EC1M 5QU
020 7336 0949
