the salt & pepper diaries

A pub has stood at 98 North Road, London N6 since 1547, and the smell of the open log fire that greets you when you enter the Wrestlers is definitely one of a truly ancient boozer that feels better suited to a country inn, than a leafy borough of London.

The pub apparently gets its name from the 16th Century soldiers that used to drink there; then, when drunk and bawdy, picked fights with the locals. There’s more history above the fireplace – a pair of horns are a nod to the ‘Swearing of the Horns’ that dates back to 1623 and still takes place today – I’ll endeavour to find a little more about this one!

Despite its history, the pub is pretty non-descript from the outside, it’s only when you enter that you realise just how wonderful it really is. The bar is wood panelled, large and L-shaped with comfy sofas and a fire to the left of the room. To the right the bar area wraps around with decent seating areas for groups of all sizes, finally finishing up with an outdoor terrace area.

The great thing about the Wrestlers is Martin, the owner. He doesn’t take reservations, but insists on a system where you wait to be seated if you want lunch or dinner. This may sound frustrating, but there is a reasonably high turnover of tables and no one is allowed to sit without Martins permission, so it’s very efficient and all it means is you can relax at the bar, get some drinks while you wait for a tap on the shoulder.

The Wrestlers is really a winter pub. It’s OK in the summer, but what with the fire and a consistently friendly group of regulars, it’s good just to settle in there when the weather is wet and cold. Plus the roasts are superb. Simple bar menu stuff, but huge portions – beef, chicken and pork with all the trimmings and a great wine list, particularly Reds to accompany. The beers are also decent - Greene King, London Pride and Abbot. The only downer is they always get fancy with the puddings – what they do well is home favourites like sticky-toffee pudding and custard, but sometimes they get a little ambitious and it just doesn’t really work.

Finally, if you fancy a bit of D-List celeb watching, you can pretty much guarantee Les Dennis and most of Eastenders in there for Sunday afternoons. Classy.

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The Wrestlers
98 North Road
Highgate
London
N6 4AA

Tel: 020 8340 4297

photo | beatnic

We used to go to Andrew Edmunds a lot. It’s a place that feels like a secret, like you’re the only one lucky enough to know about it. For this reason, it’s a great place to recommend – there’s no name above the door, which adds to the ‘in-the-know’ feel – it’s also inexpensive, so as recommendations go, you deserve a decent one in return from the recipient.

Andrew Edmunds isn’t a secret at all though, but more of a Soho institution. It’s next door to the owners art gallery, which does carry his name and I was told once that ‘Andrew’ had such a great wine collection, he opened the restaurant just to share this. I’m sure this isn’t true and I’m not sure who told me, but I like the story. I’m not sure Andrew Edmund even exists!

I don’t know why we stopped going, as returning on Tuesday evening was a reminder of what a great place it is. It was full to overflowing amongst the tightly packed tables upstairs and down, guests were queuing, the room was full of noise and the handful of staff were managing everything in a stress free, laid back manner.

The food is modern European, definitely not mind-blowing in any way, but consistently good. Reservations are only ever taken a week in advance and if you do book, be sure to ask for a ground floor table. Downstairs is a little too cramped and you always leave smelling a little of fish! The restaurant is also billed as one of London’s most romantic places to dine and if its romance you want, insist on one of the window tables either to the left or right of the front door.

We ate late in the evening, starting with a rich, gamey terrine full of texture and flavour and very fresh scallops. This was followed though by the most appalling soufflé and asparagus main dish – dull and grey, with no character at all. This was the first ‘bad’ dish I’ve had there, a real exception. The cheese spread though bought back any lost favours and we left full and happy.

Andrew Edmunds will always be there, I can’t imagine it closing down, so I’m in no rush to return, but if you haven’t been, go, you’ll definitely enjoy.

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Andrew Edmunds
46 Lexington Street
W1F 0LW
Soho

Tel: 020 7437 5708

So in the name of research, I tried out two of Soho’s finest coffee shops this morning, one after the other – Fernandez & Wells on Beak Street and The Breakfast Club, to see which one stacked up better.

photo | anteenah

Fernandez & Wells is a cashmere jumper to the Breakfast Club’s hemp weaved cardigan. Minimal in presentation, black and white
throughout, clearly attractive to Soho’s well-heeled creative clientele and charges a premium for the pleasure. The coffee is very good though, but a little on the small side, no full measures here and only one size on offer. The spread of cakes and sandwiches is very good – door step sized cheese and onion sandwiches ready for toasting, home made carrot cake thickly spread with icing and large pot of Greek yogurt with nuts and honey. Service is superb with a full Antipodean contingency manning the till, the Gaggio and the mops.

photo | Lameen

The Breakfast Club is a different affair altogether. Only a five-minute stroll between them, Breakfast Club is instantly warmer in atmosphere. Random and bohemian is style, it definitely feels part of the Soho community – Polaroid’s of regular customers on the walls, different seats throughout, wooden, odd-sized tables and free Breakfast Club badges at the till to wear with pride. BC feels like a Greenwich Village stalwart with regulars holding court in small, quiet corners.

photo | noodlepie

The coffee is fantastic, large, overflowing cups and the bacon sandwiches on offer will keep you going all day.

So if it’s urban cool you want, head for F&W, or if it’s a more relaxed, woolly jumper with the cappuccino kids, get down to the Breakfast Club.

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Fernandez & Wells
43 Lexington St
W1F 9AL Map
Soho
Tel: 020 7734 1546

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The Breakfast Club
33 D’Arblay Street
London W1

Tel: 020 7434 2571

The team at Market Kitchen are looking for guests to form their tasting panel and take an active role in discussing dishes on the show.

Bookings are being taken now for recordings running through to April. So if you want to eat with Tana Ramsay or tell Tom Parker-Bowles what you think get hold of Hannah at Hannah.Webster@optomen.com. Mark the subject as ‘Market Kitchen Diner’.

photo | Ilaniau

Probably the fastest review I’ve ever written. Sitting on the tube currently and writing a text to myself so I have a head start. Not because I’ve just had a seminal dining experience, quite the opposite, this is simply a warning to all fellow diners never to grace Joe Allen’s relatively obscure, hidden door. Thank god it is hidden, otherwise more unsuspecting guests looking for an American brunch experience would be tricked.

I ended up at Joe Allen after a recommendation from a well know guide book – thanks Time Out Food! Admittedly, there is a tone in the guides review that perhaps, after reading again, you can tell the place didn’t rock the reviewers world. It is a shocking place - poor food, poor service and I hope they’re poorer for it and cease to trade any longer.

I want go into the detail but suffice to say two dishes didn’t arrive, a steak arrived cleverly disguised as lamb, and shoestring fries turned out to be half-cooked potato wedges. It’s described as an Americana restaurant famous for brunch classics, but don’t expect any classics, and if you do go, by some misfortune, stick to simple dishes such as steak or omelette’s - you should be ok.

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Joe Allen
13 Exeter Street
London,
WC2 E7DT
Tel: 0207-836-0651 (please never phone this)