Billed as New York’s new hot haunt, this Greenwich Village ‘pub’ requires all guests to bust through a line of paparazzi before entering. If you succeed the scrum at the door, you’re rewarded with a neat, dimly lit bar with stool seating and a handful of tables to eat at.

photo | schatz (my Waverly dining partner)
If you don’t venture to the loos, sorry restrooms, you’ll fail to see that this tiny drinking area is simply the warm-up to very large restaurant space, made up of a three large rooms, and a few nooks and crannies that all work their way toward a huge atrium with a single table that seats about 30. Bare brick walls covered in Ivy in a few places all help create a really fantastic dining space.
Opening in 2007 by Graydon Carter to much hype, The Waverly definitely pulls in a certain class of New Yorker – there’s a mix of Wall Street dollars alongside the fashionistas, all topped with a sprinkling of celebrity to keep the paps in business on the sidewalk. I liked the review comment in the NY Times - when Adam Platt asked “Who the hell are all these people?” he received the answer, “They’re all people wondering who the hell you are,”. This sums up the experience well.

photo | matthew rautheim
The food though deserves some scrutinising. The Oysters we kicked off were little more than average and the crab cakes looked somewhat on the dry side. The Dove Sole as an entrée improved things a little, but the sauce was overly sharp and it would have been better simply served with little more than butter. I didn’t try the duck that also came, but the friend I was with gave it a non-descript so-so review.
It’s pricey, so the quality was disappointing, but the pound is still strong and eating out in London at anywhere that boasts a similar profile would definitely break the bank. And who cares about food when you could bump into Paris and pals! So if you get the chance, don a pair of dark shades, practice your air kisses and get the champagne in. Mwah, Mwah darling!
The Waverly Inn & Garden
16 Bank St., at Waverly Pl.; no phone (unless you’re in the know!)